Print-serigraphy, Art Workshop Michel Caza, signed in the lower right plate, (1982), 57 x 42 cm. Rene GRUAU (Rimini, 1909-2004), of Italian origin, his real name Zavagli Ricciardelli Comte Delle Caminate, comes to settle in Paris with his French mother, whose name he takes in 1931. Very young he begins a career Fashion illustrator with Lidel in Italy, then Femina, Marie-Claire, The Official Couture, Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Flair, and a long collaboration with Bemberg’s “International Textiles” of which he makes most of the covers.
From 1947 he embarked on advertising and the poster with flagship campaigns for “Red Kiss”, “Bas Scandals”, Elisabeth Arden, Jacques Griffe, Pierre Balmain, Boussac, Dormeuil … He directed for his friend Christian Dior the campaign for Miss Dior and it was the beginning of a long collaboration. In addition to the great couturiers he also establishes friendships with Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Cardin.
His style is manifested, according to his expression by “graphic simplicity”, the jet of his line and the elegance of which the main subject is the woman. What he says “I love women and my eye is in love with them”. (“Gruau” by Gilles de Bure, Herscher 1989). Many exhibitions were devoted to him, including a retrospective in 1989 at the Costume Museum, Palais Galliera and in 2010-2011, an exhibition was dedicated to him at Somerset House in London. With a stroke of a brush he makes a woman, with flaming hair, rise from a dress in the shape of an arabesque.
With simplicity and elegance, René GRUAU, sketching this female portrait, with his gloved black hand a young woman supports her head covered with a large black hat reveals only her sensual lips. This print is one of René GRUAU’s variants for the cover of “Figaro Madame”. It is inspired by advertising achievements for the brand “Red Kiss”. The range “Rouge Baiser” was created in 1927 by Paul BAUDECROUX, a chemist, who imagines an indelible lipstick; he develops the texture that is that of modern lipstick. Its perfect fit ensures the success of the brand, which still lasts.
The most famous artists, such as René GRUAU and Pierre FIX-MASSEAU, illustrate the product; the actress Audrey HEPBURN swears by him!